‘Auto Mobil’ to Belgrade

Tuesday morning, 7.30. Despite the short night I wake up early. It is warm, whichs encourages me to get off the caravanbed. I immediately take a quick shower at the city beach, before Cordula and Jens arrive with their cameras. Then I prepare a strong cup of coffee on the small stove-espressomaker. We are drinking our coffee in the shade of the tall trees bordering the parking lot when our new German friends arrive in their rental car – without a tow bar. Biljana’s brother Dragan offered to bring us to the first service station on the edge of the city, as it is virtually impossible to get a lift from a city center.

Today Cordula and Jens will follow our journey, making a long item for ‘Auto Mobil’, a car show on the German national TV station VOX TV. They soon learn to be tow bar focused, meaning that you look at the back ends of cars. We only approach drivers with tow bars and we have learned that it can take a while before hitching a ride. The thermometer at the service station indicates 38 degrees in the shade. The sun is blistering high in the sky. Dachs lies next to her water container under a small tree, huffing. Peter and I intermittenlty approaching people with the cardboard sign ‘Auto Kuka? Beograd’. I play the guitar between the gas pumps and write my blog surrounded by traffic noise and exhaust fumes.

The Balkan sometimes looks like a museum of sometimes long forgotten car brands or car types. I am surprised to see a bicycle towing a fully loaded trailer over the emergency lane. Then I see a gipsy boy on a bicycle, coming to the service station tire airpump to fill his old plastic swimmingpool with air.

After two hours I can see on Cordula’s face that she is getting tired of waiting, in doubt if we will ever get out of this service station. Peter and I, being experienced caravan hitchhikers, have little doubt. Then suddenly, after three and a half hours of hard labour, Peter has success. Dragan Latinovic connects the caravan to his blue Renault 4, that seems to be falling apart by just looking at it. Peter gets in front, Dachs and I get in the back. There is no bench in the back, so I am sitting on the gas tank.

Using body language and hand gestures Dragan warns us not to smoke in the car: there is a clear stench of petrol fumes. The fact that the car is not equipped with a socket for the caravan lights doesn’t seem to be a reason to leave us behind. Speaking about the electric system: the car is started by shortcutting two loose electric wires, instead of with a key. During the ride Dragan proudly explains us that he bought the car for 150 Euro. He also shows us his driving license, which somehow feels as a relief.

During the ride, sitting on the gas tank in the back, I keep watching the caravan behind the rusty old Renault 4. I am happy that this ride is only short, to the first service station along the E75. After we have arrived we start waiting again. There is not much traffic at this station, but we have lunch in the shade of a beautiful large Japanese Gingko tree (for all you tree aficionados). After the exciting ride with the rusty Renault 4, including the use of a supersonic onboard camera, Cordula and Jens start getting the fun of this caravan hitchhiking adventure. We have 80 kilometers to go to Belgrade. Who will take us along, and how long will it take this time?

Against five o’clock Serbia truckers Miki and Dmitri enter the service station. They are on their way from Utrecht to Belgrade, carrying a load of medicines. Once more we communicate with hand and body gestures, and unfortunately find out that they have no electric outlet on the back of their truck. But they smile friendly and nod a lot. After giving them a tow bar cover and a Utrecht-hat they invite us for a drink. I bring out my guitar to play ‘Unterwegs’ for them. After the last accord they indicate: ‘hook it on’. Cool, the caravan behind a truck. That’s a first time!

Because of the non verbal communication we are not quite clear where they are going to take us. We stop at a service station immediately before the city of Belgrade. During the ride Miki had been on the phone a lot and it now becomes clear that he called his son-in-law, Slobodan Arsic, who speaks English and came to this service station especially to be our interpreter. In front of the German TV camera Slobodan explains that Miki and Dmitri really like this special and sympathetic project, worthwile of breaking their company rule not to take hitchhikers. That’s the spirit!

Later that evening the caravan is positioned in front of the Sava Center in the new part of Belgrade. And some time later we find ourselves in a restaurant in city center with Cordula and Jens. Large portions, tired, but very proud of this day. What a trip! Impressions of this stage of the journey will appear on German national TV two months from now: in the car show ‘Auto Mobil’ on VOX TV. Keep an eye on this site for the exact broadcast date and time.